A Day in the Life of Northabout
by Frank Nugent
Sunday 29th July 74,35N 57,10W
12 noon: When I awake, Northabout is at anchor off the island
of Kullorsuaq on whose eastern end stands the Devils Thumb (546 metres)
or Den Store Tommelfinger as the Danes have translated it from the name
given by the British whalers of the nineteenth century. This thumb shaped
tower of rock, was considered a bad omen by whalers, since many ships
got into difficulties within view of this significant landmark on the
west coast of Greenland. Northabout is on a Northwest Passage from Westport
to Alaska, it left Westport on the 23rd of June.
Paddy Barry, the expedition leader has his walking boots on already
I observe, as I dress myself for a day of climbing, while being plied
with tea, eggs and beans by Mike Brogan and Kevin Cronin. I gather my
rocks, friends and slings and a fifty metre rope as we are dropped ashore
by Terry Irvine in the inflatable dingy.
The first and most striking feature of this Greenland
fishing settlement is the smell and whining of the sledge dogs who are
roped up in front of each of their hunter owners houses in teams of
up to sixteen dogs. There are many puppies evident as we follow the
hill out of the village, following the new pipeline that leads to the
glacial lake which provides pumped water to the settlement. The Danish
multi coloured timber houses dot around the jetty rising up above the
sea the main provider of wealth for its residents. Halibut fishing and
seal skins provide trade for the Greenlanders in the trading post cum
supermarket where a wide array of modern goods and supplies are available.
We climb the hill steeply and drop to the lake in an hour, from here
the Thumb intimidates even more, looking steeper, higher and more slabby
than I originally hoped. We contoured right to take an easy slope to
the rigde then follow the ridge to foot of the thumb. Little was said,
as I chose to start at the centre of the ridge trending rightwards in
pursuit of a crackline. This proved immediately profitable as the rock
proved eminently climbable. My instinct took me further right as I ascended
steep, and razor sharp side pulls, bridging in style out in the security
provided by the rough rock suface weathered by centuries of Arctic gales.
Paddy follows easily enjoying the full value provided by the nature
of the climb. The next pitch provides a spectacular hand traverse and
exit through a shattered crack and out left to observe the thumb leaning
back. The difficulties over, we ran out three pitches of scrambling
to reach the top and hour and a half for the base of the thumb and three
and a half from Northabout.
Enjoying our summit view, we looked out to the ice cap to the east,
and northwards to Wilcox Head. Across the lake the summit cairn on the
hill above Kullorsuaq was joined by figures whose silouettes Jarlath
Cunnane our Skipper, Mike and Kevin and filmmaker John Murray. Their
waves and cheers was symbolic of the comradary possessed by this team.
Back climbing and three abseils brought us safely down to our sacks.
Gearoid O'Riain told us that roast chicken was underway and would be
ready for our arrival. Barking dogs were being fed as we arrived, a
seal providing sustenance for the ravaging pack.
At dinner we decided to go ashore and give a public blast of Irish
Music and singing to the villagers. Mike Pied piper like led the children
up the town where the school teacher opened the school. Soon the hall
was packed and we were blasting away at the "Greenland Whale Fisheries"
and dancing waltzes. A local accordian was sent for, and soon we were
treated to four couples including Paddy to a local set. You might have
been in Clare such was the low stepping. We responded with Paddy calling
out a simple "Walls of Limerick" with local volunteers learning
quickly the steps. We finished up with a rousing "Molly Malone"
and were escorted by the people of Kullorsuaq to the jetty who each
shook the hand of each of us.
We lifted anchor at 01.30 in the 24 hour daylight, and left that Greenland
village feeling good about ourselves and life.
